Chronomètre Antimagnétique
Technical and aesthetic inspirations - Scientific expeditions of the 50s
The optimistic, post-war era of the 1950s saw humanity break new boundaries in exploration, particularly in the polar regions where the planet’s magnetic field is the strongest. These endeavours inspired Geneva’s greatest watchmakers to create magnetism-resistant timepieces for explorers and scientists. In keeping with this tradition of refined, functional chronometers made in Geneva, Rexhep Rexhepi created the Chronomètre Antimagnétique.
The solid-silver dial of the Chronomètre Antimagnétique is inspired by the “scientific” dials of historical chronometers. But the design is also a subtle nod to the basis of the watch: the alternating blocks along the hour scale are an abstract representation of the opposite polarities of a magnetic field.
Like the great historical chronometers that emphasised function over form, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique features an amagnetic stainless steel case – one of the rare handful of cases in the resilient metal made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann.
Within the stainless steel case is a Faraday cage formed by a movement ring and dial made of ferritic stainless steel. The cage protects the movement from magnetic fields that a wristwatch is often exposed to in daily life.
As expected for a fine chronometer, the case is classically shaped with elegant details, while the seemingly ordinary case back bears an engraving that echoes the dial design. But the case back is actually an outer screw-down back that can be removed by the wearer to reveal a second, sapphire back underneath. A discreet flourish known only to the owner, this double-case back construction protects the movement from magnetism, while allowing the beauty of the movement to be admired.
Also on the back is a hand-engraved lightning bolt, a universal symbol for magnetism that functions as the reference point for the correct alignment of the case back.
With its symmetry and perfect finish, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique calibre is instantly recognisable as a Rexhep Rexhepi movement. But beyond the aesthetics, the calibre is also distinguished by an innovative construction.
The centrally located balance wheel is not simply a question of styling, but a carefully considered choice that preserves visual balance while accommodating the auxiliary gear train that drives the indirect central seconds hand. This gear train is driven by the second wheel and culminates in a gear positioned at the centre of the movement that performs one revolution per minute, thus driving the seconds hand.
MOVEMENT
In-house, manually-wound movement. Hours, minutes and central seconds. Hacking, zero-reset seconds for precise time setting. Gold wheels. Movement construction and materials specifically chosen for magnetism resistance. Mainspring made from a corrosion-resistant alloy that is also non-magnetic. Winding mechanism incorporates a pawl to prevent over-winding of mainspring while ensuring optimal chronometry.
DIMENSIONS
Casing-up Ø: 30 mm Height from bridges to main plate / from bridges to hands: 5.8 / 8.1 mm
NUMBER OF COMPONENTS
239 components in total
JEWELS
25 jewels
REGULATOR
15-tooth Swiss lever escapement with an in-house, shock-resistant balance (Ø 10.4 mm) with regulating screws. Anchor in gold with ruby pallets. Hairspring with Breguet terminal curve. Fixed banking pins for the escapement.
FREQUENCY
21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
POWER RESERVE
Single barrel with a minimum power reserve of 72 hours (three days)
DECORATION
All components, visible and non-visible, are entirely finished by hand to the highest level in keeping with the traditions of Geneva watchmaking. Techniques employed include anglage, black polishing, perlage, Côtes de Genève, and hand engraving. Spokes and inner edges of wheels are bevelled by hand. Bridges and plates are made of lead-free German silver for both superior finishing and environmental consciousness.
CASE
The case is made up of 30 components including a pair of sapphire crystals on the front and back. Constructed with a glazed, fixed inner back and a ferritic stainless-steel ring around the movement. The movemEnt ring, case back, and dial plate form a Faraday cage that protects the movement against magnetism.
DIMENSIONS
Ø 38 mm x 9.90 mm (excluding sapphire crystals) Lug-to-lug measurement (length): 48 mm Width between lugs: 20 mm
TIME DISPLAY
Hours, minutes, and central seconds
DIAL
Black enamel Grand Feu
HANDS
Steal hands tempered to brown color
WATER RESISTANCE
3 ATM (30 metres)
BRACELET
Ripstop Fabric